Curachmen of the West: Preface
to
THE CONQUEST OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC G. J. Marcus, Oxford University
Press, New
York 1981:3–4
For nearly an
hour
the men stood waiting to launch the curach. It was blowing fresh from
the south-west, with hard squalls of wind and rain; and the breakers
came charging in, rank after rank, in unending succession. From time to
time the men would retreat before the biggest sea, afterwards shoving
their curach well out into the water again. It looked as if the
long-awaited deibhil, or lull, would never come.
Seated in the
stern
of the curach, in oilskins
and sou’wester, was the young priest from Inishere, the southernmost of
the Aran Islands, which lay from two to three miles off across Sunda
Salach (Foul Sound), at present almost invisible in the rain and spume.
He had said mass early that morning after crossing over from Inishere
the night before, and was now returning home.
The boat slip on Inishmaan, in the midst of
the Aran group, was exposed to the full force of the heavy western
swell. In anything of a breeze, the sea made fast with the weather
tide. Sunda Salach was a forest of tossing wave-crests. The
horizon beyond was leaden grey, and jagged like a saw. Along the
black cliffs to the southward white pillars of foam were continually
rising and falling. The weather showed no sign of moderating. The usual crowd had
collected down by the
shore; the men in their homespuns and rawhide pampooties, the women in
their red woollen gowns and petticoats, with shawls pulled over their
heads. On the edge of the crowd a black dog ran to and fro, dodging the
sprays and barking incessantly. A low murmur of Gaelic mingled with the
hiss of the rain on the battered slip, the wailing of seabirds wheeling
and circling high above the grey limestone crags, and the low, sullen
thunder of the groundsea.
All this time
the
look-out, standing higher up
the slope, was intently watching a rocky point to the southward to
gauge the strength of the incoming seas. Again and again the grip
of the three curachmen tightened on the gunnel of their craft as they
made ready to rush her down and out into the surf; again and again the
look-out, watching every sea, had waved them back. Suddenly three great
seas swept in to the
shore. The men hurriedly retreated with the curach as before. Then, as
a flood of yeasty grey water came swirling over the slip, the look-out
snatched off his hat and waved it frantically in the air. ‘Anois! Anois
!’ (‘ Now! Now !’), he shouted. The excitement of the spectators
rose to fever pitch; men rushed forward to the help of the crew;
together they ran the curach down the slip, plunged her into the surf –
the curachmen scrambling in over the gunnel and grabbing their oars –
and then, at a frenzied yell from the bowman, the helpers let go. As
the next breaker bore down on them the crew almost ceased
pulling: the curach’s bow shot up until she nearly stood on end:
a yell of apprehension arose from the crowd on the slip as a blinding
cloud of spray burst over the prow: then the curach plunged safely down
into the long hollow beyond, reappearing several yards further out. For
a few more minutes the people stood watching the curach's rhythmic
swoop up, over, and down the huge, toppling rollers. But the danger was
now past and presently they turned towards their homes.
It was a scene
which
Inishmaan must have
witnessed, time and again, for generations. Both the launching and the
beaching of a curach in such weather would put the seamanship of her
crew to the severest possible test. The danger of the return – if the
bad weather should continue – was at least as great as that of the
departure. Before the curach could be safely beached, she was in
imminent peril of being swamped, or even capsized, by a heavy sea.
Again the long-drawn-out suspense: the men watching and muttering among
themselves, the women alternately weeping and praying, while the curach
hung, for minute after anxious minute, her prow constantly turned to
the sea, on the edge of the surf-line, waiting for a smooth.
This unique craft, the three- or four-oared
curach, perhaps the handiest, lightest, most buoyant afloat, which is
still in general use in certain parts of the Atlantic coast of Ireland
and nowhere else in Europe, is the descendant of one of the most
ancient types of vessel in the western world. It must have been in use
for centuries before the first mention of it occurs in classical
literature. Both before and after the late Imperial age it was a
significant factor, not only in the maritime, but also in the political
and ecclesiastical, developments in these islands. It is closely knit
in with the early history of the Celtic peoples. It is the key to the
fuller comprehension of a whole era of seamanship and navigation. In
the hide-covered craft were launched the earliest recorded ventures far
out into the Western Ocean. The Irish curach has a long, a very long,
history behind it.
(G. J. Marcus, The
Conquest of the North Atlantic, Oxford University
Press, New
York 1981:3–4)