CLOSING
EXCERPT
PART 7: HELLULAND, MARKLAND, AND VINLAND
3F.5
THE WILD GRAPES OF
VINLAND.
Lastly, we come to
the grapes that have caused so much trouble and dispute in
the eastern context. Here once again "Occam's Razor" cuts straight
and true, for it proves quite unnecessary to consider any and all other
interpretations
or locations for the wild grapes in question. In fact,
the inclusion of "grapes" in the Sagas reinforces the suggestion that
Vinland is indeed best understood in terms of a unique ecological niche
such as that under discussion here. The choice is again precise, as is
the location. Thus, to localize matters even further, the following
quotation with its emphasis on the town of Duncan at the mouth of
the Cowichan Valley:
BERBERIS
AQUIFOLIUM Pursh.
The genus name is derived from the
Arabic 'berberys', applied to one or more species of the Mediterranean
Coast ... This fine plant is outstanding, not only for size, leaves,
and fruit, but also for its quantities of beautiful yellow flowers and
for a delicious honey-like fragrance. Moreover, when we realize that
the fruit yields a refreshing grape-like juice (when mixed with sugar)
and an excellent jelly, it becomes apparent that it ranks high among
our native plants.... Tall Mahonia ... occasionally reaches a
height of 10 feet (near Duncan, Vancouver Island). It must take
pride of place as one of our most attractive shrubs.... ' Oregon Grape
', of course, refers to the handsome clusters of dark-blue berries that
are dusted with a pale powder or bloom."... "It is well-known now as
the state flower of Oregon."
(Lewis J. Clark, WILD
FLOWERS OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST, Harbour Books, Madeira
Park 1998:172-173, emphases supplied).
Figure 3. " Vinland's " Tall
Oregon-grape (Mahonia
aquifolium)
Source: PLANT
TECHNOLOGY of the First Peoples of British Columbia, Nancy
J.Turner, UBC Press, Vancouver 1998:148;
(photograph included here with the permission of the University of British Columbia Press.)
As for the grapes
in the Sagas, James
Robert Enterline wrote in VIKING AMERICA (1972):
In the Saga of Eirik the
Red, after Thorhall the Hunter went off by himself, some writers have
inferred that he found grapes and ate of them, becoming intoxicated,
for he was discovered on a steep crag where:
" he lay gazing up into
the air with wide-open mouth and nostrils, scratching and pincing
himself and muttering something ."
The corresponding
situation in the Tale of the Greenlander occurs when
Tyrkir the German, after being lost in the woods and subsequently
discovered by Leif and his men, is described thus:
"First he spoke for a
long time in German, and rolled his eyes many ways and twisted his
mouth, but they could not make out what he said. After
a while he said in Norse: ' I did not go much farther, and yet
I have a discovery to tell of; I have found vines and wild grapes.'
"(James Robert Enterline, VIKING AMERICA, DoubleDay,
Garden City, 1972:38)
Enterline rejects
the "possibility of instantaneous fermentation on the vine
needed to produce such supposed intoxication", and few would
argue with this assessment. But what of the effects of eating too
many of the wild grapes that grow in the
Cowichan Valley, the suggested West Coast location for Vinland
under discussion? Here Pojar and Mackinnon (1994) note that: "The
tart, purple berries of both Oregon-grapes were eaten, but generally
not in quantity." Why not in quantity? Perhaps the following
provides the answer to both this question and the apparent
"intoxication" in the Sagas:
The bark is bright
yellow
inside, due to an alkaloid, berberine. The shredded bark of the stems
and
roots was used to make a bright-yellow dye for basket materials. The
bark
and berries were also used medicinally for liver, gall-bladder and eye
problems. One Saanich woman noted that eating the berries in
quantity was the
only antidote known for shellfish poisoning. Great
caution
was used, because this drug is very potent.
(Plants of the
Pacific
Northwest Coast, Compiled and Edited by Jim Pojar and Andy
MacKinnon, Lone Pine Publishing, Redmond, 1994:95; emphases added).
Oregon grape and
barberry plants, including the fruits, contain the alkaloid drug,
berberine, used in medicine as an astringent for treating inflammation
of the mucous membranes. This compound is potentially toxic if taken in
large does, and therefore it is recommended that you eat these fruits
and foods made from them with moderation and do not consume them as a
regular part of your diet.
(Nancy J.Turner, Adam F.Szczawinski. Edible Wild Fruits and Nuts of Canada.
National Museum of Canada, Ottawa, 1979:39-40)
Many people are very
fond of a tart Oregon Grape jelly as a condiment to use with meats.
I've never cared much for it. When my mother made it, years ago, we
kids dubbed it "quinine jelly", and we rolled on the floor in simulated
agony! Maybe Mom didn't have the right recipe. Still other people
are devotees of Oregon Grape wine. I've made it myself, and I've tasted
that made by others. Its big drawback is a pronounced earthy taste that
takes at least a year or more to age out. (J. E. Underhill, Wild
Berries of the Pacific Northwest, Hancock House,
Saanichton, 1974: 68-69)
Lastly, there remains one one loose
(and indeterminate) end concerning Mahonia
aquifolium itself. According to Pojar and
McKinnon (Plants of the Pacific Northwest
Coast,
1994:95), "Oregon Grape" ranges from Southern coastal British Columbia
to Central Oregon. More precisely, it is found in the south-east corner
of Vancouver Island as already noted, and also on the lower British
Columbia mainland as far north as Powell River; further south in
Washington State, and finally in Oregon. How Oregon Grape came to
flourish in one particular corner of Vancouver Island and this section
on the coastal mainland of North America is an ecological question that
is likely lost in the mists of time. And, it must also be stated, it is
also unlikely that it would have anything to do with historical
periods, especially those as recent as the time of the Sagas.
Nevertheless, for partial "completeness" at
least, there remains a loose (if not redundant) thread in the Sagas
that combines grapes, vines and also Viking ships, i.e., after Tyrkir the Southerner found the
"wild grapes and vines":
"Leif said to his crew:
'From now on we shall have two tasks to do and we shall alternate them
so as to do each job every other day. We shall gather grapes,
and we shall cut vines and fell timber,
to make a cargo for my ship.'
This was done. It is said that their pinnace was filled
with grapes. A full cargo was cut for the ship,
and in the spring they made ready and sailed away. Leif gave the
country a name in accordance with its resources, and
called it Vinland (Wineland)." (Helge Ingstad,
1976:41-43; emphases supplied).
Remaining entirely with the
Sagas and the limited number of Viking voyages allotted to this period,
the above provides little more than a largely redundant explanation for
the naming of "Vinland" itself. As for the implication that
attends the cutting and transportation of vines in this region, this
too remains highly controversial. However, it at least permits
differentiation between the tasks mentioned in the Sagas, and it
may not be completely out of court if the favourable conditions of
the Medieval Warm Period and the possibility of more frequent Viking
contacts in the Pacific Northwest are taken into consideration.
After all, as discussed in
earlier sections, there were -- at a conservative estimate -- two
hundred years or more (i.e.,
1050 -1250 CE) during
which near-optimal conditions for shallow-draught Viking ships may well
have prevailed along most (if not all) of the Passage.
Map 8b. Wineland now, if not
Vinland then
3F.6
VINEYARDS OF THE COWICHAN
VALLEY AND THE GULF ISLANDS
Wild grapes, however, do not necessarily mean wine per
se. Then again, according to data complied by Pojar and MacKinnon
(1994:95):
"The
tart,
purple berries of both Oregon-grapes were eaten, but generally not in
quantity.
Often they were mixed with salal or
some other sweeter fruit. Today they are used for jelly,
and some people make wine from them."
Vinland indeed, it
would seem.... But in any
case, because
of its suitability, local wine from this region can in
fact
be purchased from a surprising number of wineries and vineyards
now flourishing within ten miles or so from Duncan and Cowichan Bay. By way of an introduction, the VQA (Vinter's
Quality
Alliance) pamphlet on BRITISH COLUMBIA'S WINE COUNTRY (Region
1, Vancouver Island) states:
"Situated off the
southwest coast of British Columbia, Vancouver Island is home to
the newest wine-growing region.
Just an hour's drive from
Victoria, rolling hillside vineyards
hug country lanes that connect historic towns.
Most of the 20 Hectares of
vineyards are planted near the town
of Duncan."
THE COWICHAN LAKE EDUCATION CENTRE:
"One of the Cowichan
Valley's best kept secret's is its passion for growing things in this
special place with its special climate.
The wine growers of the Valley
know how to turn the rivers and trout streams as well as clear clean
lakes into a host of fine wines and ciders.
Guests can enjoy touring Vigneti
Zanatta, Blue Grouse Vineyards, Venturi Schulze
Vineyards, Cherry Point Vineyards and the Merridale
Cidery."
The above was written in
1999. Now, only four years later, the number of wineries in the
Duncan region has grown to twelve, as detailed in a
lengthy article in an April 2003 issue of The Vancouver Sun
newspaper.
But first, remember Tyrkir the "Southerner", the discoverer of the Vinland
grapes and the vines in the Sagas?--he who proclaimed:
"I can report on
something new: I have found vines and grapes.' 'Is that true,
foster-father?' Leif said.
'It is certainly true,'
Tyrkir replied, 'for I was born where there is no lack of vines and
grapes.' "
Well read on, for the
article in question was introduced as follows:
GLENORA – They told him
it couldn't be done. A vineyard on Vancouver Island?
Impossible. Too wet. Too cool. Too this, too that. Agriculture
experts. Neighbours. Skeptics. Dionisio (Dennis) Zanatta paid them no
heed; he knew what he knew. He had grown up in northern Italy, after
all. !, Wasn't the climate similar there? Didn't they grow
grapes, make wine? “He knew that this is what they do back home,”
says Loretta Zanatta, his daughter. “Why can't you do it here?”
No reason at all, as it turned out.
Dennis
Zanatta started growing grapes and making wine shortly after he
moved to the Cowichan Valley in the 1950s to run a dairy farm.
Later, he took part in a provincial government experiment to test
new grape varieties on Vancouver Island in the 1980s. And then,
when provincial regulations finally changed, permitting small,
two-hectare wineries, Zanatta set up a farm-gate operation here, seven
kilometes southwest of Duncan. Vigneti Zanatta opened its doors to the
public in 1992, and today boasts about 12 hectares in vines, a
celebrated restaurant and a growing reputation for making fine
champagne-style wines.
It's a success story that has tilled the way for a
wine-making boom on Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, where
there now are 17 licensed
wineries and a cidery, five more wineries in development and plans
to double the number of hectares in production from about 105 to
more than about 202 over the next few years, according to figures
provided by the Vancouver Island Vintners Association (VIVA).
The majority of the wineries – 12 of the 23 – are located
here, in the Cowichan Valley, while the rest are scattered from
Saanich to Nanaimo to Saltspring Island.
( Lindsay Kines, “South island wine industry
booms,” The
Vancouver Sun, April 19, 2003, p.C1; emphases supplied)
By 2006 the more
comprehensive Wine
Islands Vinters Association replaced VIVA to embrace additional
wineries on the adjacent Gulf Islands; current wineries in
the immediate Duncan area are listed below in alphabetical order:
Though superceded by the Wine Islands Vinters
Association, the following quotation is retained from the original VIVA
Web pages because of its relevance to the central issue, i.e.,
the suitability of
this special region for the growing of grapes:
Southern Vancouver
Island and the Gulf Islands
comprise the warmest growing region in Canada.
The Wine Islands have their
origin in fiery volcanic
rock, and have been scoured by three ice ages.
But the ocean remained, warming the land and
creating microclimates which winemakers now
exploit for your pleasure.
This terroir
is ideal
to grow some of the world’s
best cool-climate grapes, and yields elegant,
aromatic wines reminiscent of northern Europe...
(http://www.islandwineries.ca/about.htm)
which in turn gives rise to resonant echoes of Homer's Odyssey and the "Elysian plain, which is at the ends of the world" where:
"Oceanus breathes ever with a West
wind that sings softly from the
sea, and gives fresh life to all men..."
Thus here and in general it
is hardly surprising that in 1976 Imbert Orchard used the title
“Fortunate Islands" for his Aural History impressions of
the early days on the Gulf Islands (Sound Heritage Program, Vol
5. No.4 Aural History,
Provincial
Archives of British Columbia, Victoria). An
exaggeration? Perhaps, but not necessarily. Those unacquainted with
the region might reject the notion outright, but it seems likely that
those more familiar with these warm and bountiful Islands would
nevertheless
affirm that they are about as close as anyone could hope to get.
But either way,
it seems that the Vikings knew their business when it
came to the suitability of this small region and its climate
for growing grapes.
- It is Vinland now, it was Vinland then, and quite
likely always was Fundit Vínland Góða (Vinland the
Good).
MAP 9. THE WESTERN VIKING LANDS:
HELLULAND,
MARKLAND AND VINLAND:
Helluland
commencing at the Etolin/Wrangell
Islands Region (Alaska); Markland
the Queen Charlotte
Islands, and Vinland
the
Cowichan Valley in the southeast corner of Vancouver
Island, British Columbia,
Canada. For further
information about Vancouver Island and the province of British
Columbia in general,
see the B.C.
Moments
vignettes produced by the Knowledge
Network .
POSTSCRIPT: THE CARVED SPINDLE
WHORLS
It seems entirely
appropriate to leave the present
subject with spindle whorls carved by the Coast Salish of "Vinland" and
the Pacific Northwest. The first example is described in Nancy
J.Turner's PLANT TECHNOLOGY of the First Peoples of British
Columbia, (UBC Press, Vancouver, 1998:131) as a "Coast Salish
Spindle Whorl carved from Broad-leaved Maple. The faces in the centre
are surrounded by four Mink." The accompanying photograph is shown
below with the permission of the University
of British Columbia Press.
Figure 4. The Coast Salish
Spindle
whorl
Spinning and
weaving? Yes, of course, another link,
another thread. This is after all the Cowichan Valley, now justly
famous for its "Cowichan Sweaters." And the knitting needles?
Originally made from the wood of the Vine Maple as noted earlier. But
it always was the weaving, not the knitting, and in
addition the one and the two-bar looms, the Dancing Capes and the
Ceremonial Blankets--the warp and the weave of it all...
Thus visit Duncan,
the Vineyards, and the
Cowichan
Native Village; learn the local legends, and, if it so pleases the
reader,
go there and gaze upon on "Vinland the Good," though it seems that the
Vikings
themselves have long since departed. Were they driven off, as the Sagas
record?
Or did they have their own agenda and further horizons in mind? And if so, where would they have gone next?
Who can really say. From Map 4 one might suggest south to California,
and again on to Mexico perhaps. Then Central and South America? Or did
they turn north and
west again to Siberia, China and the Far East? Unlikely scenarios?
Perhaps, but Iron Men in Wooden Ships who could navigate through the
Northwest Passage could tackle anything and go anywhere,
could they not?
And
The Last Viking?
Perhaps he lives on
in all of us.... I would like
to think so, anyway.
Finally, it seems
re-assuring, fit and proper
these days that the first Pacific Northwest Indian carvings that greet
visitors arriving at Vancouver International Airport are by the modern
Coast Salish themselves.
The
Welcoming committee - a greater than life pair of figures - Male
and Female
in balance and harmony, and in addition, a softly spiraled
spindle whorl
full sixteen feet in diameter tenderly carved in cedar.
What else remains?
Perhaps we will never know,
but then
again perhaps what was held in trust was merely a reaffirmation of
something long acknowledged and always understood.
Simply this:
Native wisdom tends to assign
human
beings enormous responsibility for sustaining harmonious relations
within
the whole natural world rather than granting them unbridled license to
follow
personal or economic whim ... Native wisdom sees spirit, however one
defines
that term, as dispersed throughout the cosmos or embodied in an
inclusive,
cosmos- sanctifying divine being. Spirit is not concentrated in a
single,
monotheistic Supreme Being ... Native spiritual and ecological
knowledge
has intrinsic value and worth, regardless of its resonances with or
"confirmation"
by modern Western scientific values. As most Native authorities would
be
quick to point out, it is quite capable of existing on its own merits
and
adapting itself over time to meet modern needs. For it is, after all, a
proud,
perceptive, and extraordinarily adaptive spiritual tradition, every bit
as
precious, irreplaceable, and worthy of respect as Christianity,
Judaism,
Islam, Buddhism, and other great spiritual traditions. (Peter
Knudtson
and David Suzuki, Wisdom of the Elders, 1992)
LUX E
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